The city has become safer to travel to since 2003; however, police/army presence is still heavy. Many buildings of value will also have a sandbag bunker and razor wire for protection. If arriving from the airport, you will also notice hundreds of large, Western-style houses. These were built before the current conflict when domestic travel to Kashmir was booming. Most of these houses are empty, being squatted in or have been usurped for military use.
Most people visit the city in the summer months. The temperature at this time is cool to pleasant. Light sweaters may be needed for occasional cool nights in the summertime. In winter, you will need full winter gear and expect snow and few places to have hot water.